The internets are abuzz over steam scrambled eggs. Despite a panoply of marvelous looking cured meat dishes at Gottino, this entirely uninteresting preparation caught people's attention. Really, people, you could have house-made porchetta, calabrese, or pork terrine or tonnato, but instead you would pay $9 for scrambled eggs? Don't be dumb.
I tried this steam-scrambling technique today. I would only make it again if I were in a crazy rush and really wanted to eat eggs (this joint probability is very small). We already know from Daniel Boulud how to make perfect scrambled eggs. It involves controlled low heat and constant stirring (the double boiler is great, but I usually use a skillet over medium-low heat). The steam wand is too hot, but it does provide the benefit of the entire quantity of egg coagulating instantly from the pressure-stirring, at the moment the mixture reaches 68°C. The butter is almost magically emulsified, but the whole process is too fast. I should have had a soft boiled egg with my last bagel. If I were in New York for brunch, I would love to go to Gottino, but there's no fuckin' way I would order scrambled eggs.