the list of flavors

I couldn’t find a list anywhere of the Pierre Hermé macaron flavors from the other day, and they do change a lot. Here it is though, complete with dumb trademarked names. I added a few acronym tags for mouse-over English words.

Chocolat & Foie Gras

biscuit macaron, ganache au chocolat, gelée de foie gras

Café

biscuit macaron café, crème au café

Chocolat

biscuit macaron chocolat, ganache au chocolat amer

Éden

biscuit macaron, crème à la pêche et au safran, morceaux d’abricots moelleux

Azur

biscuit macaron chocolat, ganache au chocolat et au yuzu

Pistache

biscuit macaron pistache, crème à la pistache

Menthe Fraîche

biscuit macaron menthe, crème à la menthe fraîche

Plaisirs Sucrés^®

biscuit macaron, ganache au chocolat au lait, praliné feuilleté

Inca

biscuit macaron, compote d’avocats à la banane, ganache au chocolat

Mogador

biscuit macaron, ganache au fruit de la passion et chocolat au lait

Rose

biscuit macaron rose, crème aux pétales de rose

Citron

biscuit macaron citron, crème au citron

Mosaïc

biscuit macaron vanille, crème à la pistache et à la canelle, griottines

Huile d’Olive & Vanille

biscuit macaron, crème à l’huile d’olive et gousse de vanille

Mutine

biscuit macaron noix de coco, ganache au chocolat au lait et noix de coco

Chocolat au Lait & Thé Earl Grey

biscuit macaron au thé, ganache au chocolat au lait et thé Earl Grey

Truffe Blanche & Vanille

biscuit macaron, éclats de noisettes du Piémont grillées, crème à la truffe blanche

Infiniment Vanille

biscuit macaron vanille, crème à la vanille

Arabesque

biscuit macaron, crème à l’abricot et abricots moelleux, praliné croustillant à la pistache

Églantine & Marron

biscuit macaron, crème d’églantine,

Marron & Thé Vert Matcha

biscuit macaron marron, crème aux marrons glacés, crème onctueuse au thé vert matcha

Caramel à la Fleur de Sel

biscuit macaron caramel et grains de fleur de sel, crème au caramel au beurre salé

Americano Pamplemousse

biscuit macaron, crème au Campari et pamplemousse, morceaux de pamplemousse confit

Plénitude

biscuit macaron chocolat, ganache au chocolat-caramel et éclats de chocolat à la fleur de sel

Jasmin

biscuit macaron, crème à la fleur de jasmin et thé au jasmin

Églangine, Figue, & Foie Gras

biscuit macaron, crème d’églantine et figure, gelée de foie gras

Délicieux

biscuit macaron, crème au wasabi, pamplemousse confit

Porcelana

biscuit macaron chocolat, ganache au chocolat pure origine Venezuela Porcelana

Ocumare

biscuit macaron chocolat, ganache au chocolat pure origine Venezuela Ocumare

Cassis

biscuit macaron, ganache au cassis et graines de cassis

Carrément Chocolat^®

biscuit macaron, ganache au chocolat ultra amer et éclats de fèves de cacao, gelée de chocolat amer

Isaphan^®

biscuit macaron, crème au letchi à la rose, compote de framboises

Mandarine & Baies Roses

biscuit macaron, crème mousseline à la mandarine et aux baies roses

Satine^®

biscuit macaron, crème mousseline au cream-cheese, compote d’oranges et fruits de la passion

Céleste^®

biscuit macaron, crème mousseline au fruit de la passion, compote de rhubarbe et fraises

to make

• bacon and chanterelle risotto
• green lentil and toulouse sausage
• cabbage with pigeon peas, raita

yes please

give us access to EU documents!

with which to make…

• bengali potato/sweetpotato, with peas
• salad with lettuce, egg, tomato apple
• salad with arugula, orange, fennel
• omelet or tart with smoked sausage

market haul:

I forgot to get the radicchio for risotto… so, next week. Originally uploaded by gay.goy.gourmet

• lettuce
• cabbage
• lots of apples
• cucumber
• mango
• orange
• green onions
• fennel bulb
• arugula
• cherry tomatoes
• sweet potato
• cilantro
• lots of yogurt
• eggs

$/€

to make

• whole wheat pasta with romanesco and cilantro
• aloo palak
• carrot leek soup (probably veg, unless I venture to a butcher)
• lots of salad (escarole & batavia, carrots, blue cheese, pear, lemon)

my apartment stairs

my apartment stairs
Originally uploaded by gay.goy.gourmet

oh, and

there are cardoons. lots of cardoons. a project for next week.

my local markets, train-food

The Paris marchés alimentaires are great, but certainly no more so than a typical American farmer's market. They are, as anywhere, dominated by distributors who sell the same stuff you'd find in the neighborhood produce-shop (these are what's shockingly absent from American streets). A few of these have connections to producers or suppliers of unique products. For example, most have peruvian mangoes and bizarrely, avocados are 3 or 4 for 2€ , definitely a good deal. One vendor had these, plus the only unwaxed Italian lemons in the entire market! (Everyone else's were neither.) Some sell olives out of giant tubs, others out of smaller vessels with their own flavoring additives.

Then there are the few producers. The scale of Belleville/Père Lachaise (they abut one another) is approximately the same as Soulard in St Louis, but all stretched out in the middle of the boulevard. There is one place with yellow turnips; only one with interesting colors of carrots; one or two with unwashed mâche; one grower of multitudinous varieties of apples (I got a selection the other day, one was really not good, one was excellent so far)… but the ratio of actual producers to distributors appears to be approximately identical to Soulard.

There are a few bakeries, creameries, butchers – I haven’t begun to investigate many of these, but none looks great. I bought a camembert au calvados from one of the smaller, more focused fromagers; he also had free-range eggs (in contrast to the palettes of mass-produced ones elsewhere). From my more or less regular bakery (still on the fence about them, really) I got a small bread for the train to Amsterdam tomorrow – so apple, camembert, and boule de campagne.

There are several biologique markets, which I expect will be more like Green City. The St-Quentin covered market has some nice looking butchers. My charcuterie allegience is already in the direction of the place by Voltaire, at least for pork products.

update: nice write-up at in praise of sardines.

Tomatoes

As if one needed another reason to avoid store-bought tomatoes out of season. From Gourmet:

Immokalee is the tomato capital of the United States. Between December and May, as much as 90 percent of the fresh domestic tomatoes we eat come from south Florida, and Immokalee is home to one of the area’s largest communities of farmworkers. According to Douglas Molloy, the chief assistant U.S. attorney based in Fort Myers, Immokalee has another claim to fame: It is “ground zero for modern slavery.”

this would be totally easy and delicious!

Shells and Creamy Basil-Tarragon Pistou with Crab and Sweet Peas

sad but true

And so we’re in a space where the people talking about food are the people who are least suited to getting others to talk about food. Being a professional culinary elitist doesn’t make you wrong. But it might make you ineffective. On the other hand, if Waters wasn’t writing these op-eds, who would be?

things to make

When not eating bread, cheese, and charcuterie (more for lunch). I went to the two big indian grocers today, spent less than 20€, and am prepared to make several indian dishes.

• yogurt rice
• panch phoron stuff
• spicy red lentils
• sindhi toor dal
• bindi (okra) bhaji (also see below)

From Madhur Jaffrey's _World of the East Vegetarian Cookbook_: : : 1.5 lbs okra : : 6 T veg. oil (you really can use much less....very definitely!) : : 2 onions : : 6 cloves garlic : : 1/2 tsp turmeric : : 1 1/2 tsp salt (can use less of this, too) : : 1/4-1/8 tsp cayenne pepper : : freshly ground black pepper : : Saute the onions and garlic in the oil for about 5 minutes. Add : the okra and saute another 5 minutes (the okra should be a : bright green after this). Add the spices and mix to coat the : okra with them. Add 1/4 cup of water, cover, and simmer for : 15-20 minutes or until the okra is tender. Uncover and cook down : until any water is gone.

looks like a project for the summer

thinking about objects

A chi square distribution with ν degrees of freedom is a gamma distribution with shape ν/2 and scale 2. So in a mathematical sense, a chi square distribution “is a” gamma distribution. But should a class representing a chi square distribution inherit from a class representing a gamma distribution? The surprising answer is “no.” A rule called the “Lyskov Substitution Principle” (LSP) says this is a bad idea.

A tray of ugly cinnamon rolls

A tray of ugly cinnamon rolls Originally uploaded by gay.goy.gourmet

We had a bunch of cream cheese icing left over from having made Obama-logo cookies for inauguration day. I quickly designated it for cinnamon rolls and asked Jon, an excellent baker, what his favorite recipe for such a dough would be. He said he uses Reinhart’s 50% hydrated brioche dough and gave me approximate volumes since I lack a suitable scale. The dough was a very wet mess. But, it is stuffed with deliciousness, and when covered with icing, you would never know how ugly it is underneath. And, if Ugly Dolls can achieve such popularity, why not ugly cinnamon rolls?

two food lists

Stuff I want to make soon, or before I leave

• cinnamon rolls (to use up the cream cheese frosting from the Obama cookies)
• lamb biryani
• chicken paella
• crack pepper beef
• nasi goreng (curry fried rice)
• broiled fish with sweet potato purée
• long island cheese squash: soup & ravioli
• kolhapuri eggplant [660, p.493], also finishes the masala from Aai

Things in the Pantry or Freezer (notes for Scott)

• cubed fresh pumpkin: risotto, soup, masaman, orzo
• chinese dumplings from thanksgiving
• baba ganoush
• lamb-apple bratwurst
• ground pork (add to many Chinese things)
• pork loin (Bittman twice-cooked; amazing Mexican tamal/taco filling from Kennedy)
• hungarian cabbage soup
• yogurt-tart chickpeas with mustard greens [660, sorshe chana]

Brussels sprout stalk

Brussels sprout stalk
Originally uploaded by Kent Wang

not mine, alas, but I love it.

another box!

From CSA 2k8

• eggs
• [rivervalley] mushrooms
• onions
• parsnips
• arugula
• mustard
• giant brussels sprouties
• more fucking turnips
• apples
• carrots
• potatoes